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Different sides to autumn menswear at MAN, E. Tautz, Cassette Playa and James Long


February 24, 2011/5.50

The MAN collective show had New Power Studio (distinguished by way-out headgear, a mask and a child model), Felipe Rojas Llanos (a real contrast, with back-to-basics T-shirts, coats and jackets, with black the base again), and Martine Rose (layered coats and gold vests). New Power Studio distracted us a little too much with spectacle, and it is always harder to get a feel for each collection’s theme in a joint show.
   There was no such problem at E. Tautz, where Patrick Grant showed British tailoring at its best. Large, raised collars and wide lapels were hallmarks of the coats and jackets, while Grant’s suits were impeccable.
   Cassette Playa’s Carri Munden covered every square inch with colour, motifs and graffiti, so the connection to Ken (of Ken and Barbie) wasn’t clear. However, we enjoyed seeing Munden have fun with the cartoon æsthetics and extreme prints.
   James Long’s autumn–winter 2011–12 collection was wearable, with clever uses of wool and leather. While mayhem was cited as an inspiration, Long actually delivered something that successfully bridged creativity and commercially viable.


E. Tautz

Cassette Playa

James Long

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