On to Milano for fashion week. With Italy nervous thanks to question marks over its economy, fashion has reflected the mood, if the black-dominant collections at Gucci and Alberta Ferretti are anything to go by.
Gucci, which opened Moda di Milano for autumn–winter 2012–13, played it safe—but still beautifully—under creative director Frida Giannini. The darkened venue contributed to the mystique of the collection, as did the plush, carpeted surroundings. There was a military feel to the collection, contrasted with sheer fabrics for blouses and furs to soften the lines. Velvet was in abundance—interestingly predicted by New Zealand designer Alexandra Owen on Twitter a day before—used on jackets, while Giannini, in an equestrienne mood, included riding trousers and boots. If one wasn’t thinking 1970s by then, Gucci showed chiffon dresses and gowns in the second half, with a sense of cautious opulence to suit the times.
It was similarly black at Alberta Ferretti, with only glimpses of colour (blue, magenta, ecru) offsetting the darker mood. Ferretti’s sheer blouses indicated there might be an Italian trend, while the collection contrasted feminine with masculine: sexy leather and chiffon dresses on one hand, pinstripe coats and trouser suits on the other. The collection remained alluring, with Ferretti showing that feminine strength can be sexy, too.
Gucci
Alberta Ferretti
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