Chanel’s cruise 2015–16 collection has a stylistic link from what we saw at the ready-to-wear shows earlier this year, with Karl Lagerfeld confident with endowing the French label with plenty of colour and differing textures, though this time, he has looked to the orient for his inspiration.
Showing on Monday at the Dongdaemum Design Plaza (DDP) in Seoul in the presence of an audience that included Gisèle Bündchen, Kristen Stewart, Razane Jammal, Tilda Swinton, Gaspard Ulliel, Alma Jodorowsky, Isabelle Huppert, Rinko Kikuchi, G-Dragon, Taeyang, Ko Ah-Sung, Jung Ryeo-won, Park Shin Hye, Choi Siwon, Sandro Kopp, Gwei Lun Mei, Han Ye Seul, Namie Amuro, Lee Jong Suk, Yoona Lim, and CL, the cruise collection has what Chanel dubs a structured, avant-garde silhouette.
Gone was the houndstooth of the autumn–winter 2015–16 collection, replaced by highly colourful tweeds and cottons, which injected more pizazz into the silhouette. Lagerfeld also used shantung, linen, tulle and lace. He pulled off patchwork with more elegance than most designers can muster, while stripes and embroideries provided further texture to each look. Instead of the Parisian inspiration from his previous collection, Chanel took the Korean hanbok and moulded it into jackets with rounded shoulders; the collars were also slightly rounded and full, avoiding sharp lines. Skirts are pencil- and straight-cut, while trousers are wide. The sense of volume really came from the textures and layers used, more than the cuts themselves.
The post-show event saw a performance by DJ Mademoiselle Yulia, followed by a private concert by Cerrone and a further performance by DJ Tim Sweeney.