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August 6, 2014

Retrospectives: great moments in Parisian fashion history, with YSL, McQueen, Galliano, Gaultier

Lucire staff/14.05

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What are some of the great fashion moments in recent history? You’ll have seen these videos run on Lucire TV, and we’ve singled them out for an additional focus. In French and English.

1. The departure of Yves Saint Laurent
In January 2001, Yves Saint Laurent retired from the house that bears his name, with the brand’s final haute couture show and retrospective at the Hotel Inter-continental in Paris. Two thousand people were invited to the Centre Pompidou to see Saint Laurent’s 300 greatest classics, and models included Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, Jerry Hall, and Naomi Campbell. In the finalé, 40 tuxedos paraded to a song performed by Laetitia Casta. Catherine Deneuve, a long-time friend of the designer, was in tears. Saint Laurent died in 2008.
   Saint Laurent says, ‘I tried to prove that Paris was still the city of light and of haute couture, and haute couture made like this was necessary for people’s imaginations. I like seeing my models evolve and seeing how the public react and actually in that moment I feel really close to the public. I still get nervous in this profession. I’m still not used to it after 42 years. I’ve tried again to perfect this style that has now become really important in fashion, this style that I created and to which I remain loyal, as fashions pass but style stays. It’s a part of me, it’s my life. I wouldn’t know what to do; I wouldn’t be able to live if I didn’t make dresses.’

2. The shows of Alexander McQueen
Lee Alexander McQueen was known for his extravagant shows, and had come to most people’s attention after he succeeded John Galliano at Givenchy in 1996. He was later hired by the Gucci Group, joining the group in 2000. Gucci had bought a controlling stake in McQueen’s own label. An extraordinary creator, McQueen was depressed after the death of his mother, and committed suicide in 2010. The video looks at some of his greatest hits.
   Said McQueen: ‘After I left college I went to Paris to look for work, like every student does, and I went to see Martin but he couldn’t afford to pay me, and then I went to Gaultier and then there was some nasty queen on the front door to Gaultier. And I thought f*** this. I was supposed to be there for five days I was back in five hours, because there was no one else I wanted to work for apart from Margiela and Gaultier …
   ‘I call myself very schizophrenic; I have so many different, you know, personalities.’
   Katy England notes in the video below, ‘He’s just got a very clever mind, and he doesn’t follow fashion, he’s not that interested in the trends. He just suddenly thinks of something that’s really really imaginative, he might be inspired by art or … he just has a very strange vision of things which suddenly comes to life. He’ll explain an image and you’ll think wow, that’s very very strong, and that will then in turn inspire a collection. I’ve never met someone else who thinks of these things, it’s just exciting really.’

3. John Galliano at Christian Dior, haute couture spring–summer 2002
One of John Galliano’s most controversial haute couture collections was for spring–summer 2002, where he showed one inspired by the homeless, paying tribute to the ‘ingenuity shown by the underprivileged in the way they dress,’ with unstitched dresses, jacket arms held on by pegs, the layering of trousers and torn effects. Galliano said, ‘There’s the new cut but it’s also to show the work, the delicacy of the Dior atelier’s work, and also to show that this house is a laboratory of ideas where you can thrive off the rest of the house, the ready-to-wear fashion, the collection and the accessories … that’s why I’m there, to inspire the house. I cut it up a bit, a little bit crazily and expressively … They took the dress upstairs and they made the whole patronage and everything and they came back down with the same expressive cutting which blew me away, me and Stephen [Jones] couldn’t tell the difference.’

4. Madonna models for Jean Paul Gaultier
Madonna, who had been friends with Jean Paul Gaultier since 1989 when he made the costumes for her Blonde Ambition tour, went to Paris in September 1994 to model the designer’s spring–summer 1995 collection. The show was memorable for both Madonna and Gaultier, for a body corset with a conical bra.
   Looking back, Gaultier says, ‘That exact date in 1989. I knew her from that, professionally because I made the costumes for the Blonde Ambition tour, so that was really fun, it was one of my most beautiful experiences I have to say. An then obviously she modelled for me. First, she modelled in a charity show in LA in support of Aids, and the second time she modelled, you recorded her, at the Musée des Arts Forains, that must have been around ’96. There you go!
   Marie-Christiane Marek summarizes the influence: ‘Madonna produced a visual shock, leaving a mark on her era and captivating a fascinated public from the end of the ’80s. She presented corseted silhouettes with conical bras, or more Jean Paul Gaultier men’s suits. Madonna, therefore, embodied the Parisian designer’s success, heralding a new feminine era with a stamp of sex appeal.’

Le départ d’Yves Saint Laurent (version française)

The departure of Yves Saint Laurent (English dub)

The shows of Alexander McQueen

John Galliano at Christian Dior, haute couture spring–summer 2002

Madonna défile chez Jean-Paul Gaultier (version française)

Madonna models for Jean Paul Gaultier (English dub)

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July 28, 2014

Sponsored video: getting real people behind L’Oréal Paris’s Elvive Fibrology

Lucire staff/12.19

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A Lucire special promotion

We are used to seeing L’Oréal Paris have the world’s most glamorous models and celebrities appear in their advertisements, so it makes a nice change when everyday people are asked to appear—as they do in its latest Elvive Fibrology thickening hair care promotion.
   Between January 22 and April 24, 2014, Boots UK, looking at its online and offline purchases, says one item from the Fibrology range is sold every 12 second on average, making it one of L’Oréal’s most popular lines.
   Having real people makes the advertisement more easily related, and L’Oréal builds on the initial promotion by having each woman in the ad—Zoë, Sarah, Priya, Jade and Lucy—elaborate even further on their favourite Fibrology hair care product.
   For Zoé, it’s the Thickness Booster serum; Sarah says she can feel the Fibrology shampoo ‘expanding’; Priya favours the Double Serum; Jade likes the Fibrology Thickness Booster; and Lucy names the conditioner.
   Each woman gives her tips on using the product and reveals her one secret based on her use of Fibrology.
   Their Q&As are made complete by their sharing thoughts on how their L’Oréal Paris TV shoot went—where they were treated just as one might see Eva Longoria, Cheryl Cole, Aishwarya Rai or Araya A. Hargate pampered on set.
   Each was auditioned beginning with a casual casting session, while the day of filming saw the women choose from a variety of outfits. Zoë says, ‘More importantly, my hair has never looked better!’ It does seem that the enjoyment they’re having in L’Oréal Paris’s promotional video below is genuine—and, after all, they are worth it.



Post sponsored by L’Oréal Paris

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Filed under: beauty, hair, London, modelling, Paris
July 26, 2014

Bambi Northwood-Blyth named face of Ba&Sh for autumn–winter 2014–15 fashion campaign

Lucire staff/13.46

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Quentin de Briey

Bambi Northwood-Blyth, who was one of Lucire’s news-makers of 2013, has now been named the face of the international press campaign for French label Ba&Sh.
   The autumn–winter 2014–15 collection will feature Northwood-Blyth in a shoot in Barcelona by Belgian photographer Quentin de Briey. The label says that the Australian model was chosen for her ‘glamorous freshness, and her bohemian-chic allure.’
   The designers, Barbara and Sharon, said in a release, ‘We were completely seduced by Bambi, her charisma, energy and boldness.’
   The collection contrasts between ‘intensity and lightness, nobility and bestality,’ says Ba&Sh, and is meant to convey pluralism.
   The campaign’s idea centres around femininity, ‘a woman wildly in love, deliberately free and outgoing, with multiple facets,’ or what it dubs ‘ultra-femininity’.
   The campaign breaks in France and internationally from August 2014, on displays, in print and web media. Ba&Sh’s web site can be found at www.ba-sh.com.

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July 13, 2014

Riley Keough’s de Grisogono shoot images from Cannes released

Lucire staff/14.25

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Emanuele Scorcelletti

Photographs of actress Riley Keough modelling for de Grisogono at the Grand Hyatt Hôtel Martinez, where she was based during the Festival de Cannes in May 2014, have been released.
   Using one of the suites, Keough modelled wearing various de Grisogono jewellery items, including the latest Allegra line (in Lucire issue 33), as well as designs from the Gocce and Gypsy collections.
   Paris-based Italian photographer Emanuele Scorcelletti, well known for his portraits and his work with luxury brands, photographed Keough.
   The Allegra collection is ‘Dedicated to a new generation of women, who dare to express their radiance, and explore different shapes and jewelled expressions of their individuality,’ says de Grisogono.
   Keough, who is the granddaughter of Elvis Presley and Priscilla Presley, began her modelling career in her teens, and first appeared on an international runway for Dolce & Gabbana.
   Her acting début was in The Runaways (2010), and she soon landed the female lead in The Good Doctor (2011) opposite Orlando Bloom. She has recently completed filming on Mad Max: Fury Road, alongside Charlize Theron, Tom Hardy, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.



Emanuele Scorcelletti

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July 7, 2014

Caroline de Maigret the new Lancôme muse: brand wants to connect with Parisian attitude

Lucire staff/22.13

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Model and music producer Caroline de Maigret is the new muse of Lancôme, the company calling her choice ‘an obvious conclusion’.
   Lancôme says that de Maigret was chosen for her nonchalance and sophistication, as well as for her musical work (she created, with partner Yarol Poupaud, Bonus Track Records and Yarock Productions), her runway experience, and her aristocracy (descended from Polish and French royalty). She is described by Lancôme as ‘the favourite subject of the most renowned photographers of the last two decades; a woman from the fashion world, but one who prefers style in its every form to fashion itself; a strong woman, above all, with great intellectual curiosity and an exceptional grasp of people and things.’
   The collaboration with de Maigret will begin in September as she heads off on an international tour for her book How to Be Parisian Wherever You Are: Love, Style, and Bad Habits, a humorous look at the Parisian attitude, written with Anne Berest, Audrey Diwan and Sophie Mas.
   Lancôme says this intellectual wit is in line with its own brand: ‘The brand saw Caroline de Maigret as an expert with whom they could have an intelligent discussion in order to better transmit a different, liberating form of beauty, a smart mix of indulgence and perfectionism, carefreeness and commitment.’
   The second stage sees de Maigret work on a make-up collection for 2015.

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July 4, 2014

Clémence Poésy launches Chloé Love Story at Paris rooftop party

Lucire staff/11.56

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Top Clare Waight Keller, Mélanie Laurent and Clémence Poésy. Above Clémence Poésy.

Coty Prestige has launched its latest fragrance, Chloé Love Story, at a rooftop cocktail party on Wednesday at the l’Institut du Monde Arabe, Paris, with actress Clémence Poésy the centre of attention as the fragrance’s muse.
   Poésy was joined by guests including Rachida Brakni, Maria Josée Croze, Géraldine Pailhas, Mélanie Thierry, Karin Viard, Anne Marivin, Hafsia Herzi, Joséphine Japy, Jeanne Damas, Jennifer Neyt, and Catherine Baba.
   Jean Mortier, president of Coty Prestige, and Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, CEO of Chloé, hosted the function, alongside Chloé creative director Clare Waight Keller, and Mélanie Laurent, who directed the TV spot revealed last night.
   The spot features the song ‘Mi Amor’, performed by Vanessa Paradis.
   Christine and the Queens provided live music at the venue, which was decorated with a metallic structure, inspired by the fragrance’s packaging in the shape of a lock-shaped flaçon. DJ Nouvelle Vague followed.
   The lock motif has been inspired by the Pont des Arts in Paris, which is decorated with padlocks.
   The event tapped into old-fashioned motifs of Paris, with Citroën 2CVs and a boat on the Seine serving as guest transport.
   The fragrance was developed by Anne Flipo, who had previously worked on Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia, Alexander McQueen MyQueen, Donna Karan Woman, and L’Homme Yves Saint Laurent. It is her first scent for Coty.
   Chloé Love Story features orange blossom, neroli and jasmine stephanotis. It follows the signature Chloé fragrance, which is also fronted by Poésy in its marketing.
   The eau de parfum will retail from September.












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July 2, 2014

Sarah Jessica Parker and Cindy Chao collaborate on brooch to benefit New York City Ballet

Lucire staff/12.33

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We’ve had Tamsin Cooper create a line for the Royal New Zealand Ballet, Backes & Strauss partner with the English National Ballet, and now, Sarah Jessica Parker and contemporary fine jeweller Cindy Chao have teamed up to create the 2014 Black Label Masterpiece Ballerina Butterfly brooch to benefit the New York City Ballet.
   It’s not quite a full line: this is a one-off to be auctioned by Sotheby’s Hong Kong this October, at the Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Sale. However, it was created with the New York City Ballet, on which Parker serves as a director, in mind.
   Parker and Chao connected during Chao’s 2011 Masterpiece Exhibition in Beijing. In 2012, when Chao opened her Beijing boutique, at which Parker was guest of honour, that the pair would collaborate on a piece for charity.
   The collaboration, which took place over the last two years, saw them review sketches, wax models and gemstones together.
   The brooch has a titanium and 18 ct gold body. It features a cushion-cut fancy brown diamond weighing 26­·27 ct, three rough brown diamond slices weighing a total of 47·71 ct, three pieces of conch pearls weighing a total of 7·25 ct, surrounded by 4,698 diamonds and fancy-coloured diamonds weighing a total of 98·09 ct.
   It is meant to be signify the beauty, structure, strength and movement of a ballerina, and can be worn either right-side-up or upside-down.
   It will be first shown in Paris during haute couture fashion week, from which Lucire will report next week. It will then travel throughout Asia, before heading to New York and Hong Kong.
   ‘I have had the great pleasure of knowing Cindy and her work for several years, and it has been an incredibly special experience to collaborate with her,’ said Parker. ‘Cindy’s jewellery designs are true works of art; they capture the eye and imagination in a memorable way. I am so pleased to partner with her on this project, which benefits the wonderful work of the New York City Ballet, an organization that is close to my heart.’
   Chao has created a Black Label Masterpiece Butterfly each year since 2008, to symbolize her own metamorphosis, says her company, Cindy Chao—The Art Jewel, which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year.
   ‘Sarah Jessica and I are two very different creative minds sharing the same artistic vision and passion,’ said Chao in a release. ‘She truly appreciates the essence and soul of my creations, and I admire her innovative yet classic view on fashion and style. My annual butterflies carry special meaning for me. Collaborating with Sarah Jessica for a cause we both deeply care for and believe in makes this Ballerina Butterfly all the more special.’
   The net proceeds from the auction will go to the ballet company.

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June 30, 2014

Beyoncé and Jay Z don custom-made Givenchy outfits for On the Run tour

Lucire staff/23.23

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Beyoncé wears costumes by Givenchy haute couture by Riccardo Tisci while her husband Jay Z wears Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci in their On the Run tour.
   The tour kicked off on June 25 at Sun Life Stadium, Miami Gardens, Fla. Beyoncé wears three costumes especially designed for her by Givenchy’s creative director Riccardo Tisci.
   Beyoncé wears a black leather short jumpsuit, with the embroidered inscription ‘BBB 17’, with chunky zipper details and hand-embroidered bra and panties as her first Givenchy haute couture outfit.
   Her second outfit, ‘Single Ladies’, is a reinterpretation of her leotard, in black stretch tulle embroidered with paillettes, 3-D stones and crystals, and a fishnet-on-skin tulle centre part.
   Her third outfit, for the finalé with Jay Z, is a black vinyl and velvet bodysuit with a fishnet catsuit underneath, and a 5 m long American flag shirt-skirt in black and white taffetas with embroidered stars.
   She wears custom-made nappa and patent leather thigh-high boots with each design.
   Jay Z wears a custom-made tuxedo in black grain-de-poudre with a black and white American flag print T-shirt from the upcoming Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci spring–summer 2015 menswear collection, in the opening number (‘03 Bonnie & Clyde’).
   The On the Run: Beyoncé and Jay Z tour will travel through the US before heading to Europe in mid-September, at the Stade de France in Paris on September 12 and 13.
   The tour had already made headlines for showing off hitherto unseen footage from their wedding and of daughter Blue Ivy Carter.
   According to Forbes, the couple was the highest-paid in 2013, with an estimated income of US$95 million.







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