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January 12, 2017

Rankin photographs Triumph’s spring 2017 campaign, starring Jessica Hart

Lucire staff/10.42



Triumph has hired top photographer Rankin to shoot its spring–summer 2017 lingerie campaign, with Australian model Jessica Hart its main face for the season.
   Triumph says the season marks a new creative direction, though the message isn’t dissimilar to its previous one: women should be able to find the correct intimate apparel to fit them. The brand has continued to use its Find the One message.
   There is more of an acknowledgement that women have many roles in their lives, and that Triumph can fit every occasion.
   Rankin said of the campaign, ‘The images are modern, accessible and incredibly confident. We’re really pushing the fact that it’s not just for the “perfect” women. Triumph is for every woman and every woman can wear Triumph and feel really confident in it.’
   On Jessica Hart, Rankin said, ‘She is the sort of person I’ve always wanted to photograph. I love empowered women and she’s really empowered.’
   Hart said, ‘It’s a really cool new look and I’m super excited to be part of it—representing this playful side of Triumph that speaks to all women. Triumph understands that women play so many roles in their everyday life—we’re fascinating creatures! A huge part of being yourself is feeling comfortable. One day you might feel more like being cozy and supported, another you might want to feel sexy and strong. The exceptional fit and comfort of Triumph products lets you be whoever you want to be and that’s something I really love.’







January 10, 2017

In brief: Belstaff shows autumn–winter 2017–18; Chanel previews spring ’17 advertising

Lucire staff/19.25




Belstaff

Belstaff has shown its autumn–winter 2017–18 collection in London, for both men and women. The Jolly Roger collection, inspired by World War II Royal Navy uniforms, even has vintage wax treatments on some designs to give them a worn look. Belstaff notes that the pea and duffle coats have been re-created, while the parka is based on a Belstaff design created for the British military in 1960. Creative Director Delphine Ninous said, ‘The formal naval-inspired pieces are contrasted with a more rugged and free-spirited look appropriate to downtime on the docks. This sense of temporary escapism is reflected in edgier elements such as naval tattoo designs and the Jolly Roger flag, giving a sense of rebellion and individuality.’ Tones are red, brown, blue and military green; base colours are charcoal grey, black and navy, with highlights in spruce teal, sanderling, cardinal red and burnished gold.



Belstaff

   Meanwhile, Chanel has previewed its advertising campaign for its spring–summer 2017 prêt-à-porter collection. The campaign itself has been overseen by Karl Lagerfeld, with contrast at its core. A pop Lolita metamorphoses into a cyberpunk; a tweed jacket has an electronic circuit board as a motif; an off-white silk and lace coat covers a black babydoll. There’s a startling modernity to the images, tying in to the Data Center Chanel catwalk show in Paris last October, which saw high-tech meet the 1990s.









Chanel

December 16, 2016

UK modelling agencies fined £1·5 million; Models 1, Premier and Storm to appeal decision

Lucire staff/17.08


Above: Models 1 is one of three agencies appealing a decision by the UK Competition and Markets Authority.

The UK Competition and Markets Authority (CMA) has fined five modelling agencies a total of £1,533,500 for collusion, driving prices up for modelling services. The five agencies named were FM Models, Models 1, Premier, Storm and Viva, and their trade association, the Association of Model Agents (AMA).
   Models 1, Premier and Storm have stated that they would appeal the decision, calling the CMA’s findings ‘wholly mistaken’ and that the fines were disproportionate, outside the Authority’s own guidance.
   John Horner, managing director of Models 1, said, ‘We reached our decision to appeal the CMA’s findings without hesitation. It is clear that even after a 20-month investigation the CMA has failed to understand our complex industry.’ The agencies have said that the CMA has not stated any evidence that their activities have had a discernible effect on competition in the UK.
   ‘The CMA is penalizing modelling agencies for seeking to maintain professional standards within the industry whilst also protecting the interests of young and vulnerable people,’ added Horner. ‘They are not improving the competitive environment but are damaging a small but important UK industry which is recognized as successful internationally.’
   The three agencies said their activities protected models’ interests and ensured a sustainable market that benefited consumers, the economy and society.
   In fact, they argue that competition is intense, with 10,000 models and 58 modelling agencies operating in the UK, and buyer power can be far stronger than that of agencies. They also point to falling revenue from modelling fees, which have dropped by 10 per cent since 2011.
   The CMA alleges that the price-fixing took place between April 2013 and March 2015 at the minimum, over a variety of assignments, from fashion magazine shoots to advertising campaigns. However, the services of top models were not affected by the collusion. This infringed the Competition Act 1998, which deems such anticompetitive behaviour illegal.
   ‘The parties regularly and systematically exchanged information and discussed prices in the context of negotiations with particular customers. In some cases, the agencies agreed to fix minimum prices or agreed a common approach to pricing,’ said the CMA in a release. The CMA says that the AMA issued email circulars that pressured members to resist prices that were too low.
   The agencies appealing the decision say that the only communication that took place between them dealt with usage and publication rights, not the prices of modelling assignments. Warnings were issued about inappropriate contract terms over image rights, which have become a major issue since online retailing.
   The fines for each agency were: FM Models, £251,000; Models 1, £394,000; Premier, £150,000; Storm, £491,000; and Viva, £245,000. The AMA was fined £2,500.
   Penalties have been announced in France and Italy after investigations into the modelling services’ sector there.
   Yasmin Le Bon, Hannah Cassidy and former British Fashion Council COO Simon Ward have publicly defended the agencies.

December 7, 2016

Dragonfly launches this season’s must-have cookbook at Mojo St James pop-up venue

Cecilia Xu/18.25



Dragonfly has been a local favourite in Wellington Central since it opened: it’s the perfect bar to chill out at after work on any day of the week, even better on a Friday. It’s the spot to hit in the weekend, whether for fine dining or distinctive cocktails. It boasts a spacious and expansive breadth of contemporary environment in its indoor, bar, and outdoor garden seating. The atmosphere is beautifully constructed and decorated, which is what makes it such a magnetic regular spot for the locals, and a gem for the newcomers. It’s subtle, too, with no brash lighting or signage cluttering up its Courtenay Place location.
   Dragonfly’s mixture of modernity, with rustic Asian influences, romanticism and relaxation matches its cuisine perfectly. This is reflected in the launch of their début cookbook, featuring the restaurant’s name on the cover—Dragonfly—Asian Dining Lounge—but referred to as the Dragonfly Cookbook. After years of successful cuisine perfectionism and experience, the book is a compilation of Dragonfly’s finest recipes, credited on the cover to brother and sister co-owners Brent Wong and Tania Siladi, with copy by Siladi and her daughter Jenna. Aided by a copious number of beautiful photographs and food imagery, by restaurant manager Ginny Maddock, who is a trained photographer, the book draws you to want to either dine at Dragonfly, or begin your own rustic Asian food adventure and exploration.
   The book has been painstakingly art-directed, and lavishly printed in Wellington, New Zealand; and priced at NZ$55. Wong explains that they won’t be making much on the book—and once time is factored in, the price will barely cover the cost. However, they see it as a way to share Dragonfly’s expertise. The Dragonfly Cookbook is available at Moore Wilson’s and online at www.orient-nz.com/dragonflycookbook.
   Due to the recent 7·8 Kaikōura earthquake that also affected Wellington, Dragonfly was one of the many businesses and stores closed for safety reasons. However, nearby Mojo in the St James Theatre just metres away has opened its doors for regular night time pop-up openings of Dragonfly. To see many of their regular customers quick to attend this as well as their book launch event on Tuesday night reflects how well Dragonfly is liked and respected by many in the capital, and perhaps a little change in operating venue may be great for the Christmas season.—Cecilia Xu; with Jack Yan, Publisher


August 31, 2016

Mumm showcases Grand Cordon, delivering by drone; Anna White launches; Karl Lagerfeld débuts autumn campaign

Bhavana Bhim/19.24




Karl Lagerfeld

On August 30 and 31, the new Mumm Grand Cordon champagne was exhibited at Croatia’s Hula Hula Beach Club. For each order of champagne at the Club, a bottle was flown over the sea by a drone. Music accompanied the delivery—those receiving the champagne would get a particularly special experience, emphasizing Mumm’s current ‘celebrate’ theme, and its taste for daring innovation.
   The new bottle was created by Ross Lovegrove and has no front label. The G. H. Mumm signature and emblem are printed directly on to the glass, while the Cordon Rouge sash is actually a real red ribbon indented in the glass. The new design meant changes to the traditional champagne production process.
   Karl Lagerfeld Paris has launched its autumn 2016 advertising campaign, Love from Paris, Karl ××, coinciding with the label’s launch in North America. Lagerfeld himself art-directed and photographed the campaign, which was styled by Charlotte Stockdale, and modelled by Joan Smalls and Hailey Baldwin. It’s a predominantly black-and-white collection with colour splashes, featuring prêt-à-porter clothes and accessories.
   Also on the theme of new and luxury: a new leathergoods label, Anna White, has launched in New Zealand, with a contemporary line consisting of the AW1 tote, Liberty shoulder bag and Protagonist clutch. Right now, Anna White is also offering a limited-edition Classique tote, retailing at NZ$650. The range has simple lines with a quality look. It’s the ideal chance to own stylish bags before others jump on board—Anna White’s off to a good start.—Bhavana Bhim with Lucire staff



July 30, 2016

Mathias Te Moananui wins 2016 New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year at L’Oréal Colour Trophy

Lucire staff/2.57


Mathias Te Moananui of Buoy Salon and Spa in Wellington has taken the top title, New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year, at the L’Oréal Style and Colour Trophy Awards, held at St Matthew’s in the City, Auckland. Te Moananui will represent New Zealand as he seeks to take out the international title at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy awards in Lisboa in October.
   Judge Stephen Marr said of the winning look, ‘Mathias’s look captured my attention because it is directional and relevant, but also a look that someone could see in a magazine and be inspired to try themselves.’
   Tracey Hughes, judging with Marr, noted, ‘As a judge I look for something that’s got a bit of uniqueness whilst still being something that’s commercial and wearable. Being on trend and progressive is important, but it still needs to have that element of classic beauty.’
   ‘Tracey and I were looking for an entry with a contemporary and effortless feel, and we found it in Mathias’s look. It’s editorial, it’s fresh, and it shows evidence of technical skill,’ added Marr.
   ‘I feel shocked!’, said Te Moananui. ‘I’m very very humbled and very thankful to win this award.’
   His inspiration was to create something beautiful from something traditionally unconventional. ‘I chose [hair] colours that most people would shy away from—golden tones, yellows, oranges and greens—in the hope that people could love it, and be like, “Actually, I could imagine myself with that colour,”’ said Te Moananui.
   Second place went to Sara Allsop from Dharma, Auckland, and third place to Sean Mahoney of Vada, Auckland.
   Andrew Cobeldick of Rodney Wayne on Manners Street, Wellington, won the Young Talent Award, while Mana Dave of Blaze, Auckland, won the Men’s Image Award. Blaze also took out the Salon of the Year accolade.

July 26, 2016

News in brief: new releases from Kenneth Cole and Madam C. J. Walker; London Fashion Week on Instagram

Lucire staff/12.11

Kenneth Cole’s Black Bold fragrance, from Parlux, is an evolution of the earlier Kenneth Cole Black. The men’s fragrance, on sale in August, is inspired by New York, and is aimed at ‘the man who will take on any challenge, regardless of the odds and who is brave enough to believe that they can make an impact,’ says the company. Kenneth Cole himself notes, ‘For more than 30 years, the company has embraced the essence of New York—its boldness, its energy, and its diversity. I wanted Black Bold to do just that: to celebrate the confident individuals who are the protagonists in their own personal stories of resilience, optimism, and ambition.’
   Cole collaborated with Firmenich master perfumer Harry Fremont. The new scent has top notes of citrus and herbal tones, rounded out with ground nutmeg and a touch of lotus flower, and finished with elements of wood and leathery musks. The campaign, featuring model and artist David Alexander Flinn, was shot by Gregory Harris. The eau de parfum begins at US$46 for 1 fl oz; US$58 for 1·7 fl oz; and US$76 for 3·4 oz.
   Meanwhile, Madam C. J. Walker Beauty Culture’s Jamaican Black Castor & Murumuru Oils Defining Butter Crème has launched at Sephora and Sephora.com, retailing at US$26. The new hair formula revives and gives body to hair, helping give soft curls. The Crème features murumuru oil, giving a conditioning coating that seals in moisture. It is paraben-, sulphate-, and phthalate-free.
   Finally, the British Fashion Council has joined the Instagram age, and invites netizens to follow London Fashion Week for spring–summer 2017 at @londonfashionweek.

July 19, 2016

Gigi Hadid helms Tommy Hilfiger’s The Girl fragrance campaign

Bhavana Bhim/15.18

Tommy Hilfiger has announced the launch of The Girl by Tommy Hilfiger, a new eau de toilette, with a campaign featuring Gigi Hadid, the company’s global ambassador for womenswear, accessories and fragrance.
   Launching at the end July 2016, the new scent is anchored in a dynamic digital campaign, which reflects Gigi’s optimistic attitude, confidence and effortlessly cool style. As part of her ambassadorship, Gigi has also teamed with the iconic American designer to create her first capsule collection, which further celebrates her modern take on style fused with Hilfiger’s signature “classic American cool” heritage.
   Hadid explained, ‘The Girl means being true to yourself and having fun while you’re at it. For me, that’s appreciating every moment, laughing at myself and surrounding myself with everything that makes me feel happy.’ Her influential attitude and fun-loving personality is encapsulated in the campaign.
   The scent opens with a burst of green pear, violet leaf and green figleaves before moving to the heart of velvety jasmine petals and silky muguet. Cedarwood and cashmeran envelop the fragrance for its signature finish that captures Hadid’s sense of individuality and confidence.
   The Girl by Tommy Hilfiger eau de toilette will be available at exclusive retailers.—Bhavana Bhim

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